For our first international travel since the Pandemic, in July, 2022, we decided to go to Iceland for 12 days. Iceland had been high on our “Bucket List” since we read a chapter in The Geography of Bliss many years ago. We’re so happy we went! On this trip we discovered the wee and wise book, Why are Icelanders so Happy? In addition to synthesizing other information, Heiorun Olafsdottir & Hrefna Guomundsdottir interviewed 14 ordinary Icelanders, as “Happiness Experts,” to glean answers to that question.
As we’ve done for every European trip since our first one in 1990, we used Rick Steves’ travel book as our primary planning guide. (If you haven’t discovered Rick Steves, we highly recommend his extensive, accessible, and excellent travel resources.) We also did “research” through watching Nordic noir television shows set in Iceland. And, predictably, Erlene read lots—from the classic Independent People (intense!) to Snug in Iceland (cozy!)—and still has a long TBR list. Larry, the ultimate personal travel guide, sketched out the itinerary, scoped out deals (Iceland is expensive!), and made arrangements. Erlene had veto power of anything that might involve riding a bus across bumpy terrain for interminable hours or staying in “rustic” accommodations (Age+Experience=Nope!).
Nature, Nature, Nature
A happy traveler in Iceland will be touched by…unspoiled nature.” (Sveinn, “Happiness Expert”)
We debated whether to do the abbreviated Golden Circle or do the whole Ring Road experience. We opted for the whole Ring! And, we’re so happy we did.
We flew into Reykjavik, picked up our rental car, and stayed a couple nights at a cozy AirB&B just outside the city. After a couple days exploring this fine, friendly city, we left for the grand tour. We meandered for the next ten days up and around the island, arriving back in Reykjavik for an overnight stay before flying home. The Ring Road was an ideal “road trip.” Our itinerary—developed from an amalgam of the guidebook recommendations and our “research”—took us to quaint villages, scenic views, and serene spaces.
Mostly, we immersed in the natural splendor of Iceland. Exuberant waterfalls, fun lava fields, chilly glaciers, interesting volcanoes, beautiful beaches, ubiquitous horses—indescribable, immersive beauty. Literally, we were immersed when we visited the Myvatn Nature Bath. Oftentimes, as we drove along or walked around, we felt like we were immersed IN a nature documentary. How could this scene not be part of a nature film? The word “awesome” is overused; but, this term most aptly describes our most prominent experience.
Books, Books, Books
“Better to go barefoot than without a book” (Icelandic saying)
A primary reason we were especially eager to visit Iceland is because it’s ranked one of the happiest countries in the world and ranked #1 on the Global Peace Index. In his witty and insightful book, The Geography of Bliss, Weiner writes about his travels to the highest and lowest ranked happy countries. Each chapter analyzes the reasons for each country’s (un)happy status.
For Iceland, happiness is in the books. Icelanders love books—and all things related. Iceland publishes more books per capita than any other country. As one illustration of this bibliophilia, Icelanders celebrate Jolabokaflod. On December 24th, books are exchanged and people settle in for a cozy evening to devour reading and consume chocolate. For the last several years, we’ve happily participated in this tradition. Erlene especially loved this bookish aspect of Iceland, because she could convince Larry that “Going to Bookstores and Libraries” was requisite for a happy travel experience.
Weiner writes, “for Icelanders…language is an immense source of joy...Everything wise and wonderful about this quirky little nation flows from its language” (p. 156). We often note that language both describes and determines our realities. The word happiness has the Icelandic word, “happ” in it. Icelandic language, from hello to good-bye, is saturated in happiness. Literally, their “hello” (komdu saell) translates as “come happy” and their parting wish, vertu saell, means “go happy.” So, in Iceland, you meet happiness, coming and going—and all points in-between!
Equity, Agency, and Attitude
“We can decide to be happy” (Erla, “Happiness Expert”)
At least in part because they’re all so literate—and their language is “egalitarian and free of pretense” (Weiner, p. 157)—Icelanders have incredible equity, connectivity, and life satisfaction. Icelanders are just happy. But, they’re not just happy. That is, their happiness isn’t merely happenstance (Get it! 😊HAPPenstance). It’s embedded in particular personal characteristics and in societal factors of justice.
In their small, but informative and engaging, book Why are Icelanders so Happy?, Olafsdottir and Gudmundsdottir succinctly articulate a range of factors contributing to Icelanders’ Happiness. In addition to immersion in nature and books, Icelanders are physically active and have strong social bonds (including lotsa sex and singing—though presumably not necessarily simultaneously!). As a society, Iceland prioritizes education, environment, equity, and social supports. The country has no military; violent crime is exceedingly low (Peace!) Employment is high; education affordable; health care accessible.
Notably, Icelanders have significant civic engagement. As one important indicator, in recent elections, 80+ percentage of the Icelandic voting age population voted. In comparison, in the U.S., this statistic is often below 50%--with recent years “soaring” to the 60+ percentage. In the 2008 financial crisis, Icelanders protested; the government held the banks accountable, raised taxes on the wealthiest, and Icelanders remained happy. In contrast, countries like the U.S. bailed out the banks and made the populace pay for it—literally and in happiness indicators.
In 1975, 90% of the women in Iceland went on strike and, subsequently, achieved status as one of the most gender equitable countries in the world. In her engaging memoir, Names for the Sea—Strangers in Iceland, Sarah Moss, an English professor, describes her year of teaching in Iceland. Moss observes, “There are no stay-at-home mothers in Iceland…Everyone takes nine months’ parental leave…there is a forty-hours a week of highly subsidized, high-quality childcare…Students can have babies without undue financial hardship…Gender discrimination…is simply not an issue in Iceland. I have a year’s holiday from the guilt that blights the lives of working mothers at home” (p. 78).
As conveyed in Why are Icelanders so Happy?, Icelanders trust their government, in general. And, in large part, citizens accept their responsibility and exercise their agency to hold their government officials accountable to earn their trust and promote their well-being. In essence, Icelanders just decide—individually and collectively—to be happy.
Petta Redast
Don’t worry; It will all work out (Icelandic motto)
Iceland has a national motto that is ideal for traveling—and all of life, really. Petta redast means “Don’t worry. It will all work out.” This attitude is more complex than simply a lackadaisical approach to life. This ubiquitous attitude actually engages a growth mindset, which lowers stress and promotes well-being.
Weiner sub-titled his chapter on Iceland: Happiness is Failure. In the chapter, he explains that in Iceland, “failure” is not stigmatized—actually, it’s normalized. For example, people are expected to try different jobs, hobbies, interests, approaches. As noted earlier, everyone is writing a novel—not necessarily with success being measure by publication. As Weiner further expounds, “If you are free to fail, you are free to try” (p. 162). And, this trying is valued in and of itself—not like in the U.S. where the “trying”/failure is only valued if it leads to “success.” As Olafsdottir & Gudmundsdottir elaborate, petta redast encapsulates embracing the unexpected. Icelanders “seem to be hardwired to make the best of things and come up with new solutions on the spot. It helps to believe that something wonderful can happen, has happened, and will happen again ” (p. 78). (Iceland’s such as HAPPening place!)
They also believe in elves and hidden people; so, there’s that. 😊
Reflecting on our awesome experience in Iceland, here are some practical pointers for embracing the unexpected. If you imbibe, drink the beer; there’s something special about it—perhaps it’s the pure, clean water. No matter the time of year, and even if you’re not an outdoorsy person, bring rain gear, a wool hat, and good hiking shoes. Don’t trust GPS and pay attention when the guidebook indicates that your route includes gravel roads. Plan to picnic; it saves money and keeps you out in nature. And, believe them when they say, “It’s windy!”
Regardless, don’t worry. It will all work out. Just book the trip to Iceland. You’ll be happy you did.
