“You may live in the world as it is, but you can work to create the world as it should be.” Michelle Obama, Becoming
We arrived in Takoradi, Ghana on March 30th for a three-day visit. Then, we sailed one day to arrive in Tema/Accra, Ghana where we stayed for two days. Both ports were very industrial; transport to and from the ship was cumbersome. High temperatures and humidity (with lack of air conditioning) sapped our energy quickly.
Our experience in Ghana was impactful in ways difficult to express. The Ghanaian culture includes love of music, humor, and proverbs. Perhaps some of their words can give food for thought…
Food!
“Nature gave us two cheeks instead of one to make it easier to eat hot food.” Ghanaian Proverb
Along with the gracious and friendly people we met, a favorite part of Ghana was the food! We had wonderful Ghanaian meals, fresh and tasty! We opted to stay at a hotel in Takoradi to access good Wi-Fi and AC—as did several folks from the ship. Our first meal was lunch at this hotel.
Mavis approached our table to take our order—likely assuming we’d get the pizza or burgers typically ordered by other Semester at Sea (SAS) folks. When we ordered traditional Ghanaian dishes, she inquired, “Have you had this before?” “No,” we replied, “it’s our first Ghanaian meal.” Somewhat grumpily, she said, “Are you sure? It’s spicy!” We joked, “Ah! You don’t think we can handle it?”
The meal was yummy. Larry, especially, ate his meal exuberantly, as he wiped his sweaty brow. (He gauges the quality of hot food by whether it makes him sweat.) Another server stopped by our table to check on us; her face showed her surprise at what we were eating. When we finished most of the (large) meal, Mavis declared, “You did well.”
In addition to delicious meals on our outings, we had several meals at the hotel. We ordered new Ghanaian dishes each time. By the end of our stay, Larry was a minor celebrity. Members of the staff stopped by our table to watch his obvious, sweaty enjoyment, and laugh with us. We’d won over Mavis, whose lovely smile and teasing conveyed connection through a shared pleasure of everyday life.
Thoughts!
“We must go back and reclaim our past so we can move forward; so we understand why and how we came to be who we are today.” Ghanaian Proverb
Rebecca, the helpful local hospitality staff member who came aboard the ship during our stay, arranged a driver, Alaji. He took us on a day trip to the city of Cape Coast. There, we had an excellent tour of the Cape Coast “Castle,” which should more aptly be called a Slave Market.
The tour of this site was profound. It compares to when we went to the Dachau Concentration camp in Germany. That intense experience from many years ago has stayed with us. And, this experience will, as well. The cruelty and inhumanity that humans can impose on other humans is hard to fathom. But, we must see it.
The guide led us through the dungeons in which thousands of black human beings were held in horrible conditions awaiting their fate. These dungeons had one tiny window, no bathroom facilities, no humane provisions at all. People stacked together in conditions that no animal—much less another human—should be forced to endure for an hour, much less days upon days. Women were routinely raped by the white owner. Eventually, these prisoners were brought into an area where they were sold to the highest bidder. Many did not survive the Middle Passage (the journey across the Atlantic Ocean); some committed suicide; those who arrived at their destination entered a life of slavery.
After experiencing the depravity of this inhumane section, the guide led us to an open courtyard and pointed to an area immediately above the slave imprisonment area. He noted that this area was a church. The silence after that pronouncement spoke volumes. Then, he led us to the other side of the compound, which had huge windows facing the beautiful ocean, with a cooling, fresh breeze. This area, he explained, was the owner’s residence.
From Ghana, over 12 million people were sold into slavery. The modern capitalistic economy was built on slavery. The historical impact and legacy of this slave trade on Ghana, other parts of Africa, and the African Diaspora is exponential. The present-day poverty of Ghana is indelibly linked with the past rape and pillage of the country’s resources and humanity through slave trade and other economic plundering.
Our guide ended our tour with asking whether we believed slavery had ended. He reminded us of the ramifications from the past and the prevalence of present-day slavery, especially in the forms of human trafficking, sweat shops, and child labor. He ended by remarking that we must know these truths and “learn to love one another.”
Still Thinking…!
“Truth is a cure.” Ghanaian Proverb
The drive to Cape Coast took us through many small villages and countryside. Throughout the day, we saw glimpses of unspoiled beaches. We had lunch at a local restaurant overlooking a beach, enjoying the ocean breeze, delicious meal, and good company.
On this Sunday drive, and throughout our visit, we noted the ubiquity of the Christian religion. Practically every surface, from billboards to shop signs to transportation had a religious message—from the “God Will Provide” Hair Salons to the scripture verse decals on taxis. Most billboards advertised a revival or charismatic religious speakers. The sound-track of the day included the taxi driver’s radio playing enjoyable Ghanaian music, along with frequent bursts of harmonious song from the churches we passed. In every village, people dressed in Sunday finery were going to and from church services.
These villages consisted of mainly mud and stick huts. We saw people exiting homes that looked like they’d literally crumble and wash away in a rainstorm. During our stay, in both cities, we saw people scrambling to work: the taxi drivers who lined up and aggressively pursued our business; the sellers on the streets and stalls who persistently sought our patronage. We saw young children begging. We saw infrastructure that, to put it mildly, was in disrepair. Roads were rutted, and many were simply dirt paths. Open drainage was common throughout both cities. Routinely, we heard about government and police corruption. And, everywhere we turned we saw the messages of “God Will Provide.”
This dissonance of abject poverty and Christian piety was hard to stomach. In processing this dissonance with someone, he said, “The preachers and politicians get rich and the people stay poor.” In this post, we focus on the economic inequities perpetuated by the dominant religion. Unsurprisingly, and sadly, the status of women and LGBTQ are similarly oppressive—as perpetuated by religious traditions and social policies. Ghana was glowingly described in a guidebook as having minimal political strife, with protests being rare. We were left thinking that perhaps that’s not a good thing.
Ms. Obama’s quote reminds us that we must understand the world as it is. The world includes stark poverty, insidious inequities, government corruption, religious perversion, and civic disengagement. We left Ghana with more questions than answers and are still thinking.
We are even more convicted that all of us can do something to address these inequities and inhumane conditions. We can join with others doing the work. Through SAS field trips, we learned about two reputable organizations. Global Mamas (Google it! You can shop on-line) provides an avenue for local Ghanaian women to sell their crafts, thus, improving their economic status, and their family and village life. Larry took his class to a local university and to visit SOS Children’s Village. This large facility provides a range of human services, including a children’s home. Having a background in child welfare, Larry was impressed with the caliber of their services.
We, all, need to be more aware and active in our global citizenry. We all can learn more, do something, and be better. We can think globally AND act locally. We, our histories and herstories, our planet, and our futures are interconnected: Truth!
