From Finland, we took a two-hour ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn. The term “ferry” is a bit misleading. This comfortable transport was a cruise-size SHIP. The nine decks comprised lots of indoor and outdoor seating/sea-viewing areas, restaurants/bars, entertainment (video games, TVs), shopping.
We arrived in Tallinn for a few days to explore this wonderful walled medieval city. Meandering through historical sites and beautiful green spaces, we thoroughly enjoyed the ambiance. Estonians love books and music! We traversed across town to be the (obviously) only non-locals at a small community’s folk festival, with traditional music/dance, local crafts, and food trucks. Also, serendipitously, we happened upon a gorgeous organ and vocal rehearsal at St. Nicholas third century church-turned art museum and concert venue. Notably, whilst having many churches, Estonia is the least religious country in the world. Hmmm…
Happily, we participated in the annual “Head Read Book Festival,” with authors being interviewed at a nearby bookstore. Estonians read more than any other European country. A large statue of beloved Estonian writer, Jaan Kross, was prominent in the old town area, a few steps from our apartment. Arrested by Germans, then Soviets, Kross spent 8 years in Gulag in Siberia. He continued to write poetry during his imprisonment and he memorized the poetry of many others who died in captivity so their poetry would survive.
We have so many meaningful associations with Estonia! But, mainly, when we think of Estonia, our first association will be: Saunas! We began our sauna-savoring in Helsinki—enjoying a public sauna whilst there. But, in Estonia, we became convinced that saunas were a life necessity. Our first apartment in the center of beautiful, historic Tallinn had a sauna, which we religiously used each evening. Then, after a few days in Tallinn, we picked up our rental car and drove to the Estonia Resort and Spa in Pärnu. Oh, my! Several saunas, swimming pool, float tank, massages, delicious food, lovely town, with relaxing parks and beaches nearby, and at very economical prices! We liked this place so much we made it our stopover on our return trip.
One does not live on music, books and saunas, alone. An important aspect of travel—and life—is the food. We had lotsa Suds and Spuds: The food is hearty—spuds at every turn; and suds, the local beers, taste fresh and delicious. Lots of grains: Rye bread, porridge. Yum. We began to hanker for vegetables and came to enjoy root vegetables (beets!) with new fervor. To be fare (wink!), we had ample fish entrees and varied meals; but, definitely, in the Eastern European diet, Carbs Rule!
